MOSTAR, BOSNIA– A City Split by a River
I have been dying to visit Mostar ever since I saw a photo of its famous bridge online. But the more I learned about this place, the more I realized it’s way more than just a cool, photogenic place.
Mostar’s got a significant history—full of tough times and hope. It’s split right down the middle by the Neretva River. The river cuts Mostar into two sides: one Bosniak and another one Croat.
The Old Bridge called Stari is the one that tied them together until it got blown up in the Bosnian War. But they rebuilt it in 2004, symbolizing healing and better days for Mostar.
But the city still feels divided, with separate bus stations and a quiet tension you can sense. That makes Mostar so special—it’s real, raw, and worth a stop.
Getting to Mostar from Sarajevo
I hopped on a train from Sarajevo to Mostar, and wow, what a ride! It took about two hours, and the views were unreal. You will feel the nature around you with all the mountains, bridges, and that bright turquoise Neretva River.
I grabbed a seat on the left side (best tip ever) and stared out the window. Tickets were cheap—11.90 BAM, like $6.50—and super easy to book online at the ZFBH site. Although the paper ticket felt old-school but the train was comfy.
Buses are another option—they’re faster and run more often—but I’d pick the train every time for those killer views. If you’re into scenic train journeys, this one’s a must-do. Plus, the train stops at the Mostar station, just a short walk from the city centre.
Where to Stay in Mostar
Sarajevo gave me one of the best home-like feelings regarding apartment and hospitality. Mostar was somewhat similar. I found Dream Apartment for only €88 for three nights. I got my own little place—a comfy bed, a big wardrobe and a terrace perfect for morning coffee.
The owner was awesome, handing me a shot of rakija (local booze) and giving me some great tips. The apartment was on a quiet street, but with one quick turn, you’re in the heart of Old Town. You will find shops, bars, the bridge, everything there.
If you’re on a tight budget, you can visit Hostel Majdas. It’s a fun and cheap option. It’s more social, with travellers from all over the world. Want something fancier? Hotel Kriva Ćuprija has cool vibes and is located near the river, offering a great view of Mostar’s landmarks.
But honestly, Dream Apartments was just right for me—it’s private, cosy, and affordable.
Best Things to Do in Mostar
Stari Most (Old Bridge)
I began my adventure at the famous Stari Most. This bridge isn’t just pretty it’s also tough. Originally built in the 16th century by the Ottomans, it stood as a symbol of unity, connecting the Bosniak and Croat sides of the city.
Mimar Hayruddin, a pupil of the famous architect Sinan, designed it. During the Bosnian War in the 1990s, the bridge was destroyed.
After the war, it was rebuilt in 2004 using traditional methods, becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Walking across those slippery stones, I could feel its history. The bridge is a symbol of Mostar as it is a piece of history.
Mostar Bridge Jump
Then I saw the bridge divers—guys who jump into the river for tips. It was wild to watch, but no way was I jumping! The view from the top was amazing, though—perfect for photos. It’s definitely one of the top things to do in Mostar.
The bridge jump tradition goes way back to the 1600s. Now it’s a popular tourist attraction, and they wait until enough people toss coins in the river. Then, they dive from the top, splashing into the Neretva below. I saw one from a distance, but up close, it’s intense. You can even try it yourself for €25 with the Bridge Divers’ Clubs help. I stuck to snapping pics from the bridge’s edge—no need to test my nerves just yet!
Kriva Ćuprija (Crooked Bridge)
I walked around and found Kriva Ćuprija a tiny bridge from 1558. It’s like a mini Stari Most, but way quieter and less crowded. The name “Kriva Ćuprija” translates to “Crooked Bridge” due to it’s slight curve. Like Stari Most, it has a distinctive, graceful arch and is made from local limestone.
I loved the peace there. It’s said that the Crooked Bridge was a practice run for the big bridge, which makes it even cooler. If you’re into exploring low crowded spots, this one’s worth seeking out. It’s tucked away from the busy tourist spots, so you can enjoy a bit of solitude.
Old Bazaar Kujundziluk
Next, I got lost in the Old Town’s bazaar. The Old Bazaar has its roots in the Ottoman period (15th–19th centuries), and its design reflects the traditional Ottoman urban layout. There’s a beautiful old traditional Ottoman fountain near the bazaar. I stoped here to drink water.
The narrow, cobbled streets are lined with stalls full of such as copper coffee sets (including the cezve), embroidered textiles, hand-painted ceramics and all kinds of souvenirs. Mostar’s bazaar reflects the city’s cultural diversity, which is a blend of Ottoman, Mediterranean, and Balkan influences.
I couldn’t stop browsing! I grabbed a little cezve (traditional coffee pot) for 10 BAM after some fun haggling. It’s my favorite keepsake. If you’re looking for unique souvenirs this is a must-visit spot in Mostar.
Spanish Square and Mostar Sniper Tower
After that, I decided to walk to Spanish Square (Trg Hiseta)—a spacious, open spot with yellow buildings. Which was the former Austro-Hungarian barracks, now functioning as a Cultural Center. Right across the street is the Sniper Tower, a creepy abandoned Bank of Mostar from the war.
You see during the Bosnian War in the 1990s, the tower became a strategic point for snipers. That’s why it’s called the Sniper Tower. Sniper’s could looking down on the surrounding area because of the hight Advantage. They could see the Old Bridge and other key parts of the city from the tower.
The building stands as a reminder of the city’s difficult past. I saw the walls are riddled with bullet holes. Couldn’t go inside (it’s not allowed), but just standing there gave me chills. Thouths about the war were in my mind.
Note – If you want a different perspective, try the Fortica Skywalk. Located on a hill just outside the city center, the Skywalk offers incredible panoramic views of Mostar.
Vrelo Bune & Blagaj Tekija
I decided to take a quick 20-minute taxi ride from Mostar to Blagaj which cost me around 10 BAM . This whole area has this incredibly peaceful vibe. There’s this Dervish Monastery by a cliff, with the Buna River rushing out from a cave.
You can go for a boat ride that’s offered in the area. I passed on the boat ride (heard it’s a bit underwhelming), but just sitting there, listening to the river, felt like pure bliss. If you’re planning a trip outside Mostar, Blagaj is an ideal peaceful getaway.
Where to Eat in Mostar
Grill Centar Mostar
My host told me about Grill Centar Mostar—her family’s spot. I expected okay food, but it was awesome! Packed with locals, I got ćevapi (sausages with bread) for just 8 BAM. A cat even slept nearby, making it feel even more like home. I went back twice—it’s that good! If you want a real taste of Mostar’s local cuisine, this is the place to go. It’s simple but delicious.
Tima-Irma
Near the bridge, Tima-Irma was a win. A mother and daughter run the place, and my plate of grilled meat and veggies (19 BAM with a beer) was incredibly tasty. The food here is fresh, local, and worth every penny. The restaurant’s location near Stari Most makes it perfect for a quick bite between sightseeing.
Šećerlook Café
For coffee with a view, Šećerlook was perfect. The café sits right by the Old Bridge, offering an excellent vantage point. Two iced coffees, mocktails, and a sweet hurmašice biscuit cost me just 10.5 BAM. That sticky treat was a surprise hit. If you love coffee, this café is a must-visit. Their homemade treats will leave you craving more!
Café de Alma
At Café de Alma, I tried authentic Bosnian coffee. The barista showed me how to pour it from the džezva (traditional pot)—foam first, no grit. I sipped it slowly with lokum (Turkish delight), and it was the perfect Bosnian experience. The ambiance is cozy, and I ended up buying some beans to take home. The next time you’re in Mostar, don’t miss this authentic coffee experience.
Practical Tips for Mostar
Money and Talking
They use Convertible Marks (BAM) in Mostar—cash is king, so grab some at an ATM once you arrive. Tipping is not mandatory, but rounding up is appreciated. Most people speak some English, especially in touristy spots, but learning a few words in Bosnian—like “hvala” (thank you)—will go a long way.
Mostar Bus Services
Mostar’s got two bus stations—one east, one west. I messed up and missed a bus once, than I had to ask locals which one is next. Timetables can be tricky too; they show the start time, not your stop’s time. It took me an hour to figure that out! Always check the schedules carefully before you leave.
Packing
Bring swimwear for the river if you’re planning to dip in, and solid shoes for walking around the cobblestone streets. Don’t forget sunscreen—Mostar gets plenty of sun, especially in the summer months!
Day Trips from Mostar
Medjugorje
I tried Medjugorje, about 40 minutes away. It’s a popular pilgrimage site, but I found it too quiet for my taste. If you’re into religious tourism, it might be perfect for you, but I’d recommend skipping it if you’re after something more lively.
Kravica Waterfall
Kravica, about an hour out, was a blast. I swam in the cold water under the huge falls—perfect for a summer day! Go early to beat the crowds. It’s a great spot for nature lovers and adventure seekers.
Blagaj Tekija & Buna River
Blagaj’s monastery and river were stunning. The peaceful atmosphere was perfect for reflection, and I took the bus from Spanish Square. I messed up the return trip but was lucky to get some help from a friendly local. Skip the boat ride and just enjoy the calmness of the area.
Mostar’s not perfect—it’s real. You feel the history, see the scars, and love the vibe. From the iconic Stari Most to the delicious food and welcoming people, it’s a trip you won’t forget. It’s a place that sticks with you long after you leave, making you appreciate its resilience and beauty. I’m already planning to go back. Want more Balkan fun? Check out my posts on Sarajevo and Dubrovnik—Mostar’s calling you!
