Matera, Italy- A Visitor’s Guide to the Ancient Stone City
Located into the cliffs of Southern Italy you will find Matera. It’s a breathtaking city sculpted from stone. Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is recognized as Italy’s oldest inhabited city. It’s often cited the third oldest city in the world.
Exploring Matera means wandering through a maze of narrow alleyways and stone staircases that connect cave dwellings (hotels), ancient rock churches, and stunning viewpoints that feel almost cinematic.
Having visited multiple times, the magic of Matera never fades. This guide provides a straightforward overview for planning your own trip, covering the best places to see, fantastic viewpoints, photo opportunities, unique cave hotels, restaurant ideas, travel tips, and more.
When is the Best Time to Visit Matera?
- Spring & Fall (April, May, September, October): These shoulder seasons generally offer the most pleasant weather for exploring Matera on foot. May and late September are often considered prime times.
- Winter (November – March): Visiting in the low season means potentially lower hotel prices and fewer tourists. However, be prepared for chilly temperatures, and some businesses might operate on reduced winter hours.
- Summer (June – August): It’s often recommended to avoid the peak summer months if possible. July and August can experience intense heat waves, making daytime exploration quite uncomfortable. June might be slightly more manageable if summer is your only option.
How Many Days Should You Spend in Matera?
Two Full Days / Three Nights are Recommended. While you can certainly get a feel for Matera on a long day trip from nearby Puglia or other parts of the Basilicata region (the historic area, known as the Sassi, is walkable), staying longer is highly rewarding.
Spending two full days (which usually means booking three nights) allows you to truly soak in the unique atmosphere of this stone city. Waking up and ending your day in such an ancient, dreamlike setting is a fundamentally different experience than just passing through. Having done both, the longer stay was significantly more memorable.
Helpful Tips for Your Matera Trip
- Money: Italy uses the Euro (€). While cards are accepted almost everywhere in Matera, having some cash is useful for small cafes or minor purchases.
- Dinner Reservations: Restaurants in the Sassi can be quite small and popular. It’s a good idea to book your dinner spots in advance, especially during peak season, to avoid disappointment.
- Accommodation Tip: You might find slightly better rates for hotels if you stay mid-week rather than on the weekend.
- Consider a Guide: Matera’s history is incredibly deep and fascinating. Hiring a local guide for a walking tour can add immense value, providing historical context and stories that bring the ancient stones to life.
Key Sights and Viewpoints in Matera
Belvedere Luigi Guerrichhio (Piazza Vittorio Veneto Viewpoint): Located right at the entrance to the Sassi near the main square, this viewpoint offers a magnificent first impression – a sweeping panorama of the stone houses, colourful shutters, and the prominent cathedral bell tower.
Belvedere Murgia Timone (Viewpoint Across the Ravine): For a different perspective looking back at the Sassi from across the deep ravine, head here. You can reach it via a rewarding hike down into the ravine, across the Tibetan Suspension Bridge, and up the other side. Alternatively, you can drive (a longer route).
Matera Cathedral (Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio): This beautiful 13th-century Roman Catholic cathedral stands at one of the highest points, its tall bell tower a key feature of the Matera skyline. It geographically separates the two Sassi districts.
Piazza Duomo: The large, open square situated directly in front of the Cathedral. It’s a lovely spot with a great atmosphere and beautiful views framed by the church.
Piazzetta Pascoli: A bustling square located in the “upper” part of Matera, just above the Sassi. It’s surrounded by shops, cafes, bars, restaurants, and museums, making it a popular gathering place, especially in the evenings.
Church of San’Agostino: Another impressive church, this one located on the edge of the Sasso Barisano district overlooking the ravine. It dates back to the 16th century and showcases beautiful Baroque architecture.
Church of San Pietro Barisano: Known as the largest rock church (carved into the stone) in Matera. Dating originally from the 12th century (with later modifications), it contains fascinating frescoes, underground burial chambers (catacombs), and even an area once used for draining corpses.
Church of Santa Maria de Idris: This church has one of Matera’s most iconic facades, perched dramatically atop a large rock spur within the Sasso Caveoso district (requiring a short climb). While the exterior view is stunning, the interior is small (and usually requires an entry fee).
The Sassi (Sasso Caveoso & Sasso Barisano): This is the heart of Matera – the ancient districts carved from stone. “Sassi” refers to these two neighbourhoods: Sasso Caveoso (generally considered the older, more cave-like area) and Sasso Barisano (with more built-up facades). Spend your time getting lost in the incredible network of stone pathways, discovering hidden staircases, ancient cave dwellings, rock churches, and breathtaking viewpoints around every corner.
Via Fiorentini: One of the main streets running through the lower part of the Sasso Barisano, lined with various restaurants, cafes, and small shops.
Where to Stay: Unique Cave Hotels in Matera
Staying in a cave hotel is a quintessential Matera experience. Here are some highly-regarded options:
Il Belvedere: A lovely boutique hotel set within caves, offering stunning views over the Sasso Caveoso from its perch. With only nine rooms, it offers an intimate setting. Note that rooms are a mix; some are full cave suites, others are standard rooms, and not all have direct Sassi views.
Il Palazzotto Residence & Winery: Situated in the Sasso Barisano, this charming property offers 10 unique cave residences. Each room is distinct, featuring details like stone barrel vaults and textured walls that highlight the character of the original structure.
Palazzo Gattini Luxury Hotel: A luxurious option housed in a former noble palace near the Cathedral. While it offers spacious suites (some with balconies, private pools, or vaulted ceilings) rather than a true cave experience, its location is prime. Furnishings might feel slightly traditional to some.
Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort: This resort boasts some of the best hotel views in Matera, looking out over Piazza San Pietro Caveoso and the Murgia Park across the ravine. Offers a range of rooms and residences, many featuring white tuff stone interiors, balconies, or unique cave-like features. A top contender.
Sextantio Le Grotta Della Civita: Often cited as Matera’s most atmospheric and luxurious cave hotel experience (with a price tag to match). Located below the Cathedral overlooking the ravine, its 18 unique cave rooms/suites are scattered around an ancient rock church (now the common area). It masterfully blends ancient authenticity with understated luxury. The main drawback is that views are primarily of the ravine, not the Sassi cityscape itself.
Where to Eat & Drink in Matera
Conzato Norcineria: A great casual spot within the Sassi for lunch, serving fresh local salads, bruschetta platters, and sandwiches.
Crialoss Cafe: A charming cafe offering fantastic views over Matera. Serves drinks and light bites like bruschetta, salads, and sandwiches. Good to know: open 1 PM – 10 PM, but reservations only accepted between 1 PM and 6 PM.
Il Rusticone: A popular spot for delicious, authentic pizza located in the upper part of town (above the Sassi). It’s small, so either arrive early or expect a possible wait.
I Vizi Degli Angeli Gelato: Considered one of the best gelato shops, found in the upper town. Offers a good selection of classic and creative flavors.
La Bruschetta: An affordable and reliable choice for lunch or dinner, also above the Sassi. Known for its bruschetta and fresh pasta dishes, especially orecchiette.
Osteria Al Casale: A personal favorite for many, located along one of the main Sassi streets overlooking the ravine. Offers classic Italian starters, excellent pasta, pizza, and some meat dishes. Their bruschetta and pastas are often highlighted. Reservations recommended; ask for an outside table.
Regiacirte: An upscale dining option boasting perhaps the best dinner views directly overlooking the Sassi. Offers tasting menus and à la carte, and is on the pricier side. Reservations essential; request a terrace table with a view.
Zipa Cafe: A very cool, atmospheric cave bar with fantastic views over the Sassi. Features cushions scattered on a rocky terrace, perfect for enjoying cocktails, especially around sunset.
Getting Around Matera
The Sassi di Matera is largely a pedestrian zone (ZTL – Limited Traffic Zone). You cannot drive into the heart of it. Plan to park your car in paid parking garages located in the upper, modern part of the city and walk down.
Exploring Matera involves a lot of walking, navigating uneven stone paths, and climbing numerous stairs. It’s part of the experience! Take your time, wear comfortable shoes.
If extensive walking or steps are a concern, tuk-tuk tours are available and offer a way to see the main areas with less physical exertion.
How to Get to Matera
- Nearest Airport: Bari Palese International Airport (BRI) in Puglia is the closest airport to Matera.
- Driving: The drive from Bari airport to Matera takes about one hour. Major car rental companies operate at Bari airport. Matera’s proximity to Puglia makes it a very popular addition to a Southern Italy road trip. It’s an easy drive (around 1 hour to 1.5 hours) from towns in northern/central Puglia like Alberobello, Polignano a Mare, or Ostuni.
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